Making Toys 5

Antisocial toy

After solving the movement issue of servo, I started thinking about how to put all these electronic parts into my plush toy. First, I moved one of power supplies to mini breadboard and attached it on the Arduino board. Here I simply used both hot glue and tape.

Toys were having fun to hang out together!
Matt's toy (with accessories made by Hsiang Ju and me) + Hsiang Ju's duck

The box made of cardboard was used to protect the circuit and provide a platform for servo to stand. Two batteries would be legs of the toy.

Everyone was working hard =)

I started sewing the skin of my toy. It's a lot of work, trust me.

My toy's head.

I got a plastic clown nose from Halloween Adventure, ha ha, and I used it as the head part, just the perfect size. Servo’s fan was attached on the plastic ball by hot glue, and the same, connected the plastic ball and the fur head skin. So toy’s head would turn to specific angles that I set when motor was triggered.

However, I made a mistake here. Without making sure where eyes would be, I hot glued the head skin with the plastic red ball. When I wanted to sew the IR sensor on its head, I found it’s hard to separate the fabric from the ball. Since I couldn’t mount the IR sensor at the right place, toy’s eyes were much lower than I originally expected. 

Putting on its skin continuously.

Final review document

the testing video is on the way.
to be continued...

antisocial cat_prototype 006 code iteration

So, yeah, I figured out what the problems were and finally made the servo work as the way I want! Hooray!
When the toy detects me (using sensor), it would turn its head and stay at that position until it detects me again and turns its head.

prototype 006 code iteration from maze on Vimeo.

And here is the code:

-----------------------------------------------------------

#include <Servo.h>


Servo myservo; //create servo object to control a servo
int sensor = 0;  // analog pin used to connect the sensor
int motorPin=11;
int val;    // variable to read the value from the analog pin
boolean status=0; //status of detecting
int counter=0;




void setup()
{
  myservo.attach(11);
  myservo.setMaximumPulse(2200);
 
  Serial.begin(9600);           // set up Serial library at 9600 bps
  pinMode(sensor, INPUT);
  //pinMode(relay, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(motorPin, OUTPUT);
  myservo.setMaximumPulse(2000);
  myservo.setMinimumPulse(700);


  Serial.print("Ready\n");
}//end of setup


int getSensor() {
  val = analogRead(sensor);            // reads the value of the potentiometer (value between 0 and 1023)
  val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 179);     // scale it to use it with the servo (value between 0 and 180)

  val=max(val,5);
  val=min(val,180);

  return val;
} //end of getSensor


void myRefresh(int delayTime){
  for(int i=0; i < delayTime/20; i++){ //delay is the total ms delay we want, 20 is the delay per iteration of the loop 
      Servo::refresh(); 
      delay(20);
  }
}

int move0(){
  Serial.print("servo position 0\n");
  myservo.write(0);
  //Servo::refresh();
  myRefresh(100);
}//end of move0

int move90(){
  Serial.print("servo position 90\n");
  myservo.write(90);
  //Servo::refresh();
  myRefresh(100);
}//end of move90

int move180(){
  Serial.print("servo position 180\n");
  myservo.write(180);
  //Servo::refresh();
  myRefresh(100);
}//end of move180

void loop()
{
    val=getSensor();
    Serial.println(val);
   
   
    if (val>20){
      if(status==0){
         move180();
         myRefresh(1000);                           // waits for the servo to get there
         counter++;
      }

      else if(status==1){
        move0();
        myRefresh(1000);
        counter++;
      }//end of else

    }//end of if
   
    if(counter%2!=0){
      status=1;
    }else{
    status=0;
    }

    //myservo.write(getSensor());
    //Serial.println(getSensor());
    //delay(15);

  Servo::refresh();
}

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I defined a function myRefresh() to make sure the servo would be refreshed every 20ms.
Then I added 3 moving functions with different angles.
The tricky part was that how to make servo stop and turn to reverse direction when the sensor detects someone again. By using 2 variables counter and status, I made servo turn to position 180 when the counter is even and turn to position 0 when it is odd.

In this week, I'll try to put the prototype that I have so far into the body of my plush prototype.
The focus of the testing this week will be:
- redesign the character for prototyping (make it big enough to put all my electronics)
- building/ sewing the plush toy
- make the toy's head move! Think about materials, the skeleton, connections... etc.

antisocial cat_look and feel prototype

character design sketch

tried to draw the paper molds based on my character sketch

it's quite close to the head proportion that I suspected

my working scene

back

front

antisocial cat_ servo prototype

Prototype 005
Materials: PIC16F88, breadboard, servo, pot
Notes:
- The servo could keep turning left and right, but I couldn’t control its speed and directions.
- I found that Arduino has a servo library that is easy to use for controlling servos. So I decided to switch to Arduino board.

servo test from maze on Vimeo.

Prototype 006
Materials: Arduino, servo, breadboard, IR sensor
Notes:
- In the very beginning, the range of IR sensor was too small. Thus the servo only moved when I almost touched the sensor. Here I scaled the value of IR sensor from 0-1023 to 0-179.

- The servo had a problem of drawing too much current.

- So I did iteration by separating power supply for the servo, but joined the grounds of the two power supplies. I also added decoupling capacitors to stabilize my voltage regulator.

prototype_arduino+servo+ir sensor from maze on Vimeo.

- Here is the code:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#include <Servo.h>


Servo myservo; //create servo object to control a servo
int sensor = 0;  // analog pin used to connect the sensor
int motorPin=11;
int val;    // variable to read the value from the analog pin



void setup()
{
  myservo.attach(11);
  myservo.setMaximumPulse(2200);
 
  Serial.begin(9600);           // set up Serial library at 9600 bps
  pinMode(sensor, INPUT);
  //pinMode(relay, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(motorPin, OUTPUT);
  myservo.setMaximumPulse(2000);
  myservo.setMinimumPulse(700);


  Serial.print("Ready\n");
}


int getSensor() {
  val = analogRead(sensor);            // reads the value of the potentiometer (value between 0 and 1023)
  val = map(val, 0, 1023, 0, 179);     // scale it to use it with the servo (value between 0 and 180)

  val=max(val,5);
  val=min(val,180);

  return val;
} //end of getSensor

/*
int moveFoward() {
  analogWrite(motorPin, getSensor());
  delay(1000);
  digitalWrite(motorPin, LOW);
  delay(1000);
  //digitalWrite(relay, HIGH);
  //Serial.println(getIR());
  delay(1000);
}

int moveBackward() {
  analogWrite(motorPin, getSensor());
  delay(1000);
  digitalWrite(motorPin, LOW);
  delay(1000);
  //digitalWrite(relay, LOW);
  //Serial.println(getIR());
  delay(1000);
}
*/

void loop()
{
/*
    val=getSensor();
    if (val<140){
        val=180;
        myservo.write(val);                  // sets the servo position according to the scaled value
        delay(15);                           // waits for the servo to get there
    }//end of if

  while(getSensor()>30){
    myservo.write(getSensor());
    Serial.println(getSensor());
    delay(15);
  }//end of while
*/
    myservo.write(getSensor());
    Serial.println(getSensor());
    delay(15);

  //moveFoward();
  //moveBackward();
  Servo::refresh();
}
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- I tried to pause the servo after every time it turns by expanding the delay time of myservo.write(). However, its movement became unpredictable. Then I tried moveFoward() and moveBackward() above, but they didn’t work well either.
- Another problem I have is the click sound of servo. I was wondering if extreme turning angles like 179 or 180 caused those noise.

BOM for the antisocial cat project

Materials I'm going to use so far are:

-Breadboard
-Arduino
-Resisters
-Capacitors
-Wires
-Potentiometer
-PIC16F88 chip
-LEDs
-Regulator
-LCD
-IR sensor
-Servo motor

antisocial toy project schedule

11/11
look for what kind of sensors and motors I can use in my project
11/12
order materials that I need (sensors, motors)
11/13-11/17
make a general figure for testing the Servo motors and the IR sensor
11/18
show the prototype with basic turning head movement
trouble shooting and figure out a way for more natural movement
11/19-11/24
working on codes for smoothing movements of turning head
adjust the range of the IR sensor
11/25
show refined prototype with more natural movement, more precise range detection and plush toy's head.
troubleshooting
11/26-12/01
refine toy’s look and try to combine the toy and the electronic part
12/02
show refined project with finalized plush toy and circuit
12/09
show my prototype that close to the end item
12/10-12/15
working on detail adjustments
document producing process
12/16
the final presentation

very quick and dirty video prototype

very quick & dirty video prototype from maze on Vimeo.

antisocial cat

the user scenario
My idea is to make an antisocial plush toy which is different from toys on the market.
It won't say "I love you! I love you!," won't giggle or play music either.
You will never be able to talk with it face to face, because the toy hates you!
Basically the toy hates to talk so it wears headphone to isolate itself!

IR sensor + Arduino + Winbond

IR sensor + Arduino + Winbond from maze on Vimeo.

I did not change the code I used in my last mini project(IR sensor+ 3 color LEDs) and simply integrated that project with my recorder project(recorder-volume control+fwd). So when the red LED lights up, the "play" function would be triggered at the same time. The chip would execute "forward" when blue LED is on. In the same way, volume changes when the green LED is on. I also keep the switches on the breadboard of the recorder project, so I can control those functions by pressing the buttons, too.

My circuit:

recorder (volume control+fwd)

recorder (volume+fwd) from maze on Vimeo.

IR sensor +3 color LEDs

IR sensor + 3 color LEDs from maze on Vimeo.

I didn't use the average code, actually I didn't know there's an average code until Yury mentioned about it.
Somehow my LEDs wouldn't flicker a lot.
So here is my code. It is quite simple.
Basically I just change the on and off status of each LED in different ranges.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

/*
*New Arduino hooked-up to 3 different Super-Bright LEDs.
*Program the 3 LEDs to turn on/off individually depending on distance of hand.
*Tzumei M. Hsiao
*/

// Analog pin settings
int irIn = 3;    // the IR sensor connected to the analog pin 3


// Digital pin settings
int redLED = 9;   // LEDs connected to digital pins 9, 10 and 11
int blueLED = 10;  //   (Connect cathodes to digital ground)
int greenLED = 11; 

// Values
int irVal = 0;   // the variable to store the input from the IR sensor
int redVal = 0;   // the variable to store the value of red LED
int greenVal = 0;  // the variable to store the value of green LED
int blueVal = 0;  // the variable to store the value of blue LED


// Variables for comparing values between loops
int i = 0;            // Loop counter
int wait = (1000);    // Delay between most recent pot adjustment and output


int sens         = 3; // Sensitivity threshold, to prevent small changes in
                      // IR sensor values from triggering false reporting
// FLAGS
int PRINT = 1; // Set to 1 to output values


void setup()
{
  pinMode(redLED, OUTPUT);   // sets the digital pins as output
  pinMode(blueLED, OUTPUT);   
  pinMode(greenLED, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(9600);     // Open serial communication for reporting
}

void loop()
{
  i += 1; // Count loop

  irVal = analogRead(irIn);  // read input pins, convert to 0-255 scale
  if (irVal < 300)//if (irVal<341)
  {
    redVal= 255;
    greenVal= 1;
    blueVal= 1;
  }//end of if
  else if (irVal< 600)//else if (irVal< 682)
  {
    redVal= 1;
    greenVal= 1;
    blueVal= 255;
  }//end of else if
  else
  {
    redVal= 1;
    greenVal= 255;
    blueVal= 1;
  }//end of else

  analogWrite(redLED, redVal);    // Send the new value to LEDs
  analogWrite(blueLED, blueVal);
  analogWrite(greenLED, greenVal);

  if (i % wait == 0)                // If enough time has passed...
  {   
    if ( irVal > sens )   // If old and new values differ
                                                  // above sensitivity threshold
    {
      if (PRINT)                    // ...and if the PRINT flag is set...
      {
        Serial.print("The value of IR sensor: ");        // ...then print the values.
        Serial.print(irVal);         

        PRINT = 0;
      }
    } 
    else
    {
      PRINT = 1;  // Re-set the flag   
    }


  }
}

antisocial animals

character design

I would like to make a bunch of antisocial animal plush toys. They are antisocial and they have antisocial behaviors, but they do cute things.

Ideas of toy function so far:
1. stick out tongue
2. crossed arms
3. yell "shut up" when it detects words it doesn't like
4. puff out cheeks
5. never be face to face with you
6. air guitar
7. it will roll its eyes and say "what ever"
8. when holding  the toy, it would say "leave me alone"

They all have the same characteristic: they'll feel embarrassed after doing "bad things".

Color mixer - IR sensor + full-color LED

Color mixer with a Sharp IR sensor and a full-color LED from maze on Vimeo.

My color mixer

my color mixer from maze on Vimeo.

Materials: Arduino, jumper wires, potentiometer, 9v battery, LEDs, resistors, DC power plug, tracing paper, scotch tape, fiberfill

Here is my code:
/*
*Color Mixer
*Tzumei M. Hsiao
*I modified the code from "Coffee-cup" color mixer on Arduino.cc
*/

// Analog pin settings
int potIn = 3;    // the potentiometer connected to the analog pin 3

// Digital pin settings
int redLED = 9;   // LEDs connected to digital pins 9, 10 and 11
int blueLED = 10;  //   (Connect cathodes to digital ground)
int greenLED = 11; 

// Values
int potVal = 0;   // the variable to store the input from the potentiometer
int redVal = 0;   // the variable to store the value of red LED
int greenVal = 0;  // the variable to store the value of green LED
int blueVal = 0;  // the variable to store the value of blue LED

// Variables for comparing values between loops
int i = 0;            // Loop counter
int wait = (1000);    // Delay between most recent pot adjustment and output

int sens         = 3; // Sensitivity threshold, to prevent small changes in
                      // pot values from triggering false reporting
// FLAGS
int PRINT = 1; // Set to 1 to output values

void setup()
{
  pinMode(redLED, OUTPUT);   // sets the digital pins as output
  pinMode(blueLED, OUTPUT);   
  pinMode(greenLED, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(9600);     // Open serial communication for reporting
}

void loop()
{
  i += 1; // Count loop

  potVal = analogRead(potIn);  // read input pins, convert to 0-255 scale

  if (potVal< 341)
  {
    potVal= (potVal* 3) / 4; //normalize to 0-255
    redVal= 255-potVal;
    greenVal= potVal;
    blueVal= 1; //blue off
  } //end of if
  else if (potVal< 682)
  {
    potVal= ((potVal-341)*3) / 4; //normalize to 0-255
    redVal= 1; //red off
    greenVal= 255-potVal;
    blueVal= potVal;
  } //end of else if
  else
  {
    potVal= ((potVal-682)*3)/ 4; //normalize to 0-255
    redVal= potVal;
    greenVal= 1; //green off
    blueVal= 255-potVal;
  } //end of else

  analogWrite(redLED, redVal);    // Send the new value to LEDs
  analogWrite(blueLED, blueVal);
  analogWrite(greenLED, greenVal);

  if (i % wait == 0)                // If enough time has passed...
  {   
    if ( potVal > sens )   // If old and new values differ
                                                  // above sensitivity threshold
    {
      if (PRINT)                    // ...and if the PRINT flag is set...
      {
        Serial.print("The value of potentiometer: ");        // ...then print the values.
        Serial.print(potVal);         

        PRINT = 0;
      }
    } 
    else
    {
      PRINT = 1;  // Re-set the flag   
    }

  }
}

Shaking music maker, Elmo+Cookie Monster

Title: 2 of the super stars of Sesame Street
Description: Just simply press Elmo's nose then flip or shake the stick to make giggling and silly sounds of Elmo and Cookie Monster.

Title: HA HA HA HA
Description: Apparently this toy attempts to make people laugh. At least I was enjoying playing with it.

Title: SESAME WORKSHOP
Description: I just tried to record every text it has on its plastic shell. Everything looked good except the material of this sound maker is not recyclable. If they could use Eco-friendly materials, that would be great!

Title: Dissection
Description: Inside Elmo's brain is the place of putting batteries. By looking at little holes on Cookie Monster's head, we can infer that they put a speaker here.

Title: Let's see what's in its body
Description: Every components are placed stably and neatly in the stick-shaped plastic shell. The nose is bound with a mode switch which I'll show later.

Title: Stay orderly
Description: Sensors and switches are covered and fixed with plastic lids. In the right bottom picture, two of wires were soldered to connect the batteries.

Title: Mode switch
Description: By pressing this tiny button, I could change the mode of music.

In mode 1 - giggling of Elmo and Cookie Monster
In mode 2 - silly sounds
In mode 3 - brisk music

Title: Power switch
Description: This little switch is used to control the state of power supply.

0 - cut off the connection with batteries.
1 - turn on!

Title: Its heart
Description: The front view of the circuit board. Wires are hidden behind the board.

Title: Turn around
Description: There are two capacitors on the back and wires are fastened with hot glue.

Title: Time to make some music!
Description: This is the sensor detecting the toy's movement and triggering the chip to play music. There are total 2 sensors inside, one is used to trigger Elmo's giggling while another one is to trigger Cookie Monster's.

Title: Done!
Description: These are all the components of the toy include a narrow strip of tape to hold wires.

After all the work, I put those electronic parts into a sock monkey that I sewed as a prototype of my final project toy. Monkey toy would make sounds when it is shook. And monkey's nose is the mode switch. Basically, it does the same thing as the elmo music maker but with a soft "container".

Maze is ready to create her own monster

Hey, I’m Maze. My major in college was information management, but I was always so interested in art and design. I taught myself Photoshop, Illustrator that kind of things and did some drawings in my leisure time. Because of my background I don't feel uncomfortable about coding or making electronic things.

My favorite childhood toy was paper doll. They are cheap but full of fun. You can change clothes for them and even design your own collections for your dolls. What you need is only a piece of paper and maybe some crayons. Unfortunately, my brother scared me that those paper dolls would come alive at night. They would crawl out of the drawers where I put them in and try to kill me by pinching my neck! I was only 5 or 6 at that time, so I just let him burned all my dolls. Then he convinced me to play video games with him. So I don’t have any picture of my dolls…

I have lots of childlike personalities, love playing games and toys, and love imaging a wonderland that never exist, love daydreaming. I don’t want to grow up honestly. If I really have to choose something to study, I would be totally into the toys.

As I mentioned above, based on my personal interests, this semester I’m trying to make a cloth toy for my thesis. I expect myself to get as much basic knowledge of making physical devices as I can and to implement the functions that I need, though they’re not defined yet.