" Quack quack, it is fill!"
This is a modified rubber duck not only giving you a company when you are taking a bath but also watching the bath water for you. You can save time and energy while waiting for the bath to do other things, because the bath ducky will inform you when the water is full.
video is on the way
After a long fight with win bound chip and arduino and bubbles..., I finally heard it quack！
Quack! from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
Here's the code:
// Input settings
int analogPin = 3; // ir sensor connected to analog pin 3
int val = 0; // variable to store the read value
// Digital pin settings
int aOut = 9; // Play pin connected to digital pin 9
// Variables
int aVal = 0; // Variables to store the input from the ir sensor
int DEBUG = 1; // Set to 1 to turn on debugging output
int average[100]; // Averaging Code setting
byte counter = 0;
void setup()
{
pinMode(aOut, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
if (DEBUG) {
Serial.begin(9600); // Open serial communication for reporting
}
}
//Main program
void loop(){
val = analogRead(analogPin);
//Averaging Code start
average[counter] = val;
byte c;
int total = 0;
for(c = 0;c<100;c++){
total += average[c];
}
int averaged = total / 100;
Serial.println(averaged);
counter = (counter + 1) % 100; //Averaging Code. modified from Dave Millis example
if(val < 300){
analogWrite(aOut, 0);
delay(1500);
analogWrite(aOut, 255);
delay(100);
}
else{
analogWrite(aOut, 255);
}
if (DEBUG) { // if we want to read the output
DEBUG+=1;
if(DEBUG>100){ //print every hunderd loops
DEBUG = 1; // reset the counter
Serial.print(val);
}}
}
And here is the new win bound recorder which is smaller, more solid, and works as well as the old one. It sounds actually better because I got a bigger speaker for it.
Led on and off depending on water height from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
I modified my code and finally got it work!
IR sensor make Led turn on based on height of water
I have not used linearizing formula yet. Just make the old one do only one thing:
if(val < 235){
digitalWrite(led,255);
}
else{
digitalWrite(led,0);
}
I used a water filter container to test again, which is 0 cm to 22 cm tall.
And I set if the value is bigger less then certain number, make the led turn on.
Here is the simulation of controlling recorder, which also works.
simulation of controlling recorder by IR sensor from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
But when I plugged the connector from Arduino to Play pin on my recorder, it did not make any sound.
I checked my recorder. Everthing worked fine. I can press the button to play, record, and forward the sound.
Problem#1: I cannot control recorder with arduino, which has worked before.Don't know what's wrong with it... maybe need to build a new recorder to try again.
Problem#2: The value keeps changing every time when I put ir sensor onto the surface of water. Sometimes the same water height gives very different values. Basically, value goes from 270 to 230 when water goes from 14 cm to 22 cm. It maybe give you 270 at 14 cm this time, but next time it gives you 250 at 14 cm. It's very hard to control the range. I have to modify the range each time according to the value I got at 14 cm. I am wondering if there is anyway I can take the beginning value as valueA and set if val- valueA > a range then turn off the led. I'm going to modify the code.
Oh, and I got the giant rubber duck. It's bigger than I imagined...
The plan is to cut a hole at the bottom and put circuit inside once I get it work well.
I found the reason for different value output from ir sensor!!! Those bubbles in front of either emitter or receiver made the reading unstable....
I tried bath duck again but failed again :(
It doesn't work to make leds on and off with ir sensor in water...
So I developed another method.
Mechanical test from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
I set three functions for different range of distance as fallowing:
1.about 50-80cm: Play
2.about 15-50cm: Play and fwd
3.about under 15cm: Play and change volume
Here's the video where I use three leds to test if the code works first.
LED + IR from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
The left led is Play, the middle one is Fwd, and the right one is Vol.
So, it works fine with pin high and low/led on and off.
And here is the code.Download ir_recorder.rtf
Then I put the connectors to the recorder.
Here is what happen on level 1 and 2.
Level First to Second from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
Level 3, which will keep changing volume on the same sound file if you stay longer.
Level Third: keeps changing volume from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
I set three ranges of distance for each led.
IR sensor + RGB led from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
Here is the code: Download IR_RGB
.
And I did a test for floating duck.
I made a plastic base installed IR sensor for duck. And put it into a container (6"*6"*6").
Then kept adding water into it.
Here is the height of the water V.S. analogRead
1 inch : -255
2 inch : -65
3 inch : -170
4 inch : -240
Yeah~ it works in water!!! The voltage changes with the height.
But even I tried many times to modify the proper range for each led, I still cannot make leds switch with the value. Um... maybe it is because it is always negative value and it changes non-linearly..... have no idea yet.
UPDATE: I tried to do it without water in the same distance but still failed. It only turned on one led. I found that it might because it is below 10 cm which is out of Sharp sensor range(10-80cm). So I think I need to measure the proper height of water in tub to see if the sensor is suitable for it first. 10/28
#1 A penny a day, keeps a piggy happier
As money gets more, the piggy's cheek becomes redder/ piggy sounds more pleased.
#2 Floating duck
While you are taking a bath, the duck will change color with the wave. Or the duck will inform you once the water arrives certain height while you are away and keep storing hot water in the tub to avoid wasting time or water.
#3 Answering Door
Using IR sensor to release voice message from the host. Or using push button to allow visitors to leave their message to the host.
#4 No real height
This height measurement machine won't hurt anyone with telling your real. It will only tell you who else has the same height as you.
Color Mixer with IR sensor and Fullcolor Led in the same Gummy Bear Box.
FullColor+IR Sensor Color Mixer from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
Code is modified from the previous one. Because the output voltage from IR sensor is about from 0 to 3 instead of regular range of 0 to 5. So I tried to justify it to make RGB reach full 255.
Code is here:Download IRsensor_Fullcolor
Color Mixer from Hsiang Ju Hung on Vimeo.
Material: Gummy Bear box, Led, Tissue, Arduino Board, Potentiometer, Resistors, 9V Battery, Wires.
Code is modified from Arduino Example Code
-----------------------------------
// Input settings
int analogPin = 3; // potentiometer connected to analog pin 3
int val = 0; // variable to store the read value
// Digital pin settings
int aOut = 9; // LEDs connected to digital pins 9, 10 and 11
int bOut = 10; //
int cOut = 11;
// Variables
int aVal = 0; // Variables to store the input from the potentiometers
int bVal = 0;
int cVal = 0;
int DEBUG = 1; // Set to 1 to turn on debugging output
void setup()
{
pinMode(aOut, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
pinMode(bOut, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
pinMode(cOut, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
if (DEBUG) {
Serial.begin(9600); } // Open serial communication for reporting
}
//Main program
void loop(){
val = analogRead(analogPin); // read the input pin
if(val < 341){ // first range = 0-340
val = (val*3)/4; // justify the range from 0-340 to 0-255;
aVal = 256 - val; // a changes from 255 to 1
bVal = val; // b changes from 0 to 255
cVal = 1; // c is 1
}
else if(val < 682){ //second range = 341-681
val = ((val-341))*3/4;//justify the range from341-681 to 0-255;
aVal = 1; // a is 1
bVal = 256 - val; // b is from 255 to 1
cVal = val; // c is from 0 to 255
}
else{ // third range = 682-1024
val = ((val-683)*3)/4;//justify the range from341-681 to 0-255;
aVal = val; // a is from 0 to 255
bVal = 1; // b is 1
cVal = 256 - val; // c is from 255 to 1
}
if (DEBUG) { // if we want to read the output
DEBUG+=1;
if(DEBUG>100){ //print every hunderd loops
DEBUG = 1; // reset the counter
Serial.print("val:");
Serial.print(val);
Serial.print(" A:");
Serial.print(aVal);
Serial.print(" B:");
Serial.print(bVal);
Serial.print(" C:");
Serial.print(cVal);
Serial.println(); }
}
analogWrite(aOut, aVal);
analogWrite(bOut, bVal);
analogWrite(cOut, cVal); }
-----------------------------------
By the way, yesterday I ran into an street installation made by Ted Southern in Dumbo. It is a sidewalk-attached interactive music maker ontrolled easily via an interface by the public. Basically the interface is just a box installed different tuners and sensors controlling two rows of speakers that have different sound quality from each other. So people passing by can play with it at ease without any instruction or guide. But the inconvenience about this project is that the artist has to screw and open the box to replace batteries (there are two 9 V)every few hours.
Click on each picture to enlarge it.
01 PACKAGE DESIGN OF THE GIGGLE BALL
It is designed for 18-month-old and beyond, so it is a pretty universal and simple toy.
02 TWO SIDES OF THE TOY
This is called double fun giggle ball. There are two characteristics which are Cookie Monster(BLUE) and Elmo(RED) installed with their two different sounds and appears. After you press on their faces, it will shake and giggle with their sounds.
03 TAG ON TOY
Material: Polyester Fibers, Polyurethane Foam
Made in China, Fisher-Price, Inc., Surface washable only
04 VELCRO AND COTTON THREAD
It has a easy opened velcro seam. As pictures, inside is a plastic ball sewed to the surface by simple cotton thread.
05 BATTERY NOTE
So I cut off the thread and pulled the plastic ball out. The ball is heavy and solid with plain white cover, and it said 2 AA battery required on its bottom where batteries placed.
06 COLOR CODED SENSOR
There are two lines connected to sensors on each side of the fiber cover. One is blue linking to Cookie Monster's face. Another is red attached to Elmo's. The right picture shows where the speaker installed.
07 SENSOR = BUTTON
Going along the line, I found two small press-sensors sewed and covered by cotton and fabric. Then I cut some thread to took them out. They are two cute small buttons.
08 OPEN THE BALL
To avoid making it giggle while I was disassembling it, I took out two AA batteries. And I unscrewed four screws fixing the cover of the ball and took it apart. There are two side of the internal. Upper side installed with a speaker, and the lower side installed a motor and a Printed circuit board. All of them are fixed by screws and connected with each other through colorful lines.
09 SPEAKER
I unscrewed the speaker. It was a thin, round, plastic-like chip.
10 PCB's back
There is a written XY and a transistor on the board's back which faced upward.
11 PCB's front
Printed circut and colorful lines connected to different parts.
Red on the left upper- Elmo's sensor.
Blue on the left upper- Cookie Monster's sensor.
Yellow- speaker.
Green and blue on the left bottom- motor
Red and Black on the right- batteries
12 MOTOR
The motor uses gears to rotate a weighty metal to keep changing the center of gravity. That is why the ball can keep shacking while it is giggling. I have to hold it tight while I was tested it without fixed into the ball, because the rotating force is quite powerful. Besides, there are some grease on the gear though...which made my hand sticky.
13 ALL PARTS
In this picture, you can see all parts inside the ball, including batteries, fixers, screws, speaker, PCB, motor, buttons, electronic cords, and the hard cover. I found the structure is not so complex as I thought, especially the motor part. And I like the way the maker codes the cord by color, which is easy to understand and recognize. This toy is a simple design with a lot of fun with attractive look and feel.
+ name
Hsiang Ju Hung 洪湘茹
+ A photo of self
+ favorite childhood toy.
A stuffed hippo, called YY. It is grey and soft. I talked with her a lot when I was little. But I don’t have any picture of it now. It is at my hometown, Taipei.
+ background and interests.
Fine arts, graphic design.
Photography, printmaking, mix-material, animation, interaction design, hand-made craft, contemporary art, music, and movies.
+ Why decided to take this class.
I would like to learn more interaction design between physical objects and people.
+ What would you'd like get out of this class, if you have an idea.
I would like to combine my thesis idea of ‘distance’ with my final project of this class.
And last semester, I planed to do a distance sensing duck that always keeps certain distance with people. If it makes sense, I would like to make it real.
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